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Ceci in her 1940 garb |
Our lovely intern Ceci Cholst was inspired by the process our
well-known (and anonymous!) fashion designer clients go through, leafing
through our vintage inventory in search of inspiration for their next
collections!
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great shoulder detail |
Below, Ceci, in her own words, talks about the experience of helping the clients as well as picking out some of her personal favorite prints and dress details in the process. She calls her piece "One Dress, Many Directions"
Recently, Helen Uffner Vintage Clothing welcomed two very
different fashion designers (whom we shall call “A” and “B”) in search of
renting some Fall 2013 inspiration. As a current intern and aspiring fashion
designer, yours truly was very excited to guide these big-name designers
through our massive vintage collection and watch the birth of next season’s
trends happen before her very eyes! Even better was finding out that the new
fall trends stem from my favorite era: the 1930s! Both wacky and serious, the
1930s offers simple, flattering silhouettes that are easy to manufacture with a
wide range of clever prints and design details that would make any designer’s
imagination run wild.
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Ceci's dress find! |
“A” came in seeking monochromatic, faded floral prints with
a touch of whimsy to match the brand aesthetic. I had the distinct pleasure of
helping A’s team comb through our 20s, 30s, and 40s dresses. While searching
the 1930s dress rack, I happened on a beautiful salmon pink dress with a
wilting daisy print. It had pintucks along the bust, typical of the mid-30s,
and faux pockets trimmed with little bows. It was innocent but not saccharine,
beautiful with a dash of melancholy. I found yet a few more dresses with a
similar print (one wonders if it was a mini trend—a topic for another post,
perhaps?), and also showed them to A.
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close-up detail of shoulder |
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Fabulous collar and cuff details..AND buttons! |
These dresses were unlike anything A had pulled: most of the
prints A’s team chose were quirky white flowers on a crowded field. The daisy
dresses literally made A stop short and reconsider their previous selections.
In the end, A did not take the pink dress but chose to rent instead a mint
green daisy print shirtwaist dress with matching daisy buttons. I can’t help
but speculate that this dress will help
A’s design team go in a totally different direction and transform their
collection, or the team might edit it out once the samples return and realizes
the print doesn’t fit, no matter how much they love it. Either way, it was
interesting to witness the moment a designer challenges their initial vision
and comes away considering totally different alternatives!
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love the buttoned yoke |
A few days later, “B” came in, seeking classic 1930s and
1940s dresses and suits for inspiration (think more Hollywood glamour, less Art
Deco) ranging from muted pastels, browns, and blacks to rich jewel tones as
part of the color story. Together, we pulled some fantastic florals, amazing
deep purple suits, and even a sheer 1920s black floral chiffon gown. This
designer was more color-oriented than A and also more specific in their period
references, but even within those narrower parameters, it was still too
difficult to choose among the hundreds of elegantly tailored dresses HUVC
boasts!
Knowing that my pink daisy dress actually fit in B’s color
story, I eagerly brought it out again. The dress immediately won B over: B
explained that the design team preferred floral prints that were distinctly
“American”: rounded flowers and lots of empty space. Ultimately B picked other
pieces for an initial presentation to the team, but felt the pink dress I
offered was a strong contender and wanted to come back for it later.
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a wow collar! |
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great 30's collar and crepe combo |
Where A wanted 1930s quirk, B wanted 1930s cool. It was an
eye-opening experience to see how, despite one decade’s very divergent design
impulses, the same dress appealed to disparate tastes. This little pink dress,
more than anything, tells the story of the fall 2013 girl.